It was a sunny bank holiday Monday afternoon in early May when we arrived in North Berwick with the intention of kayaking out to Bass Rock to see the gannets. We hadn't quite got the measure of exactly how busy the road along the seafront would be. But somehow, only slightly cheekishly, we squeezed ourselves a place to park and unloaded the kayaks. As we paddled off into the wind it was a big relief to be out of the car and on the water away from all the hustle and bustle of